Tuesday, July 12, 2005

(DRAFT)
From Kyoto, Hurry up and slow down. Falafel's appeal as "fast food"

Amir Trojbicz came to Japan in 1987. For the past 18 years, he has worn a number of hats. All the while, he has not forgotten the turbulent life in Israel he left behind. His current venture Falafel Garden has become an all-encompassing ecology-minded quest to educate minds and fill stomachs full of locally grown cuisine.

Speaking of the century-old former sake shop where he runs Falafel Garden, Trojbicz notes the beautiful wooden structure was heavily under-utilized. For example where diners can relax amongst a flower garden was once a dusty storage area for decrepit cardboard boxes. Relying on a meager budget and a mental image, he gutted the interior and the new look is mild, friendly and affords a great view of the neighborhood. This Sakeyaten cum falafel outlet is "a very special place," and a neighborhood anchor.

He fell into the place by chance, notes Trojbicz. At his first restaurant, Falafel King in Nara, a loyal customer living Kyoto's Demachiyanagi sector mentioned his neighbor's sake shop was up for sale. Sensing an opportunity, Trojbicz made his move.

Moving across the mountain and starting up Falafel garden has been made easier by the networking he did running the show at Falafel King (Sadly, now defunct). Organic vegetable farmers from across the Kansai region make these meals 100% home grown. The soybeans, tomatoes and even the sesame seeds are grown pesticide, herbicide and GMO free. "Care affects taste. Falafel is a fresh, day-to-day food."

Trojbicz knows falafel. Being Israeli, it is his home nation's adopted national food. Simply put, "It's the oldest fast food in the world." But it is not that simple. Many Arab nations see their falafel as a cultural icon, much akin to the American hamburger or the German sausage. The different variations of falafel across the globe cater to that particular culture's palate. In Egypt, the falafel is drier. The Jordanian and Israeli cooking styles, are most similar. Making falafel in such places is akin to Mexican tortillas, all productions steps are done at home, with all family members taking an active role.

Falafel is a year-round snack, meal and cultural institution. All Israelis, whether Muslim, Christian or Orthodox Jew, have a favorite stall. With Kosher consideration in mind, no one need worry. Passover is the lone time to give up the breaded falafel sandwich. Trojbicz, like all Israeli males, spent between three and four years in the military. "As an Israeli soldier falafel is a good, cheap option." His weekly snack is a stark reminder of the vulnerabilities and stresses he felt living in Israel, aspects he does not miss.

On whether he attained his delicious recipes from a skilled family member, he smiles and proclaims: "Falafel is the result of test, test and retest." But the fact that his mother his mom is a chef at a world-class restaurant in Argentina, cooking Kibbutz, couldn't hurt. Lying somewhere within this well-traveled and thus very spread out clan's DNA are some serious cooking genes.

His dream is being realized as he helps his Japanese customers, the majority new to the concept of a pita-based sandwich, exclaim "Oishii Katta!" and make a connection between "healthy" and the more familiar English phrase Fast food." The Japanese, Trojbicz attests, is a society built upon a "speedy lifestyle," where high costs for food grown organically and prepared as demand determines is seen negatively. Its certainly an inhibitor to the slow food movement.




Notes:

Israeli Macabe \580 from Netanya, Israel.
Organic coffee \400
Falafel's mention can be found both in Bob Dylan Lyrics and Greek Mythology.
Falafel in three words (see KTO quotes).
Sets include one pita sandwich and a drink(4 varieties: Falafel, Hummus, Baba Ganoush and Avocado.) prices range \630~\1110

Getting There:
Falafel Garden is just 100 meters east of Keihan Demachiyanagi station. Tel. 075-712-1856. Seating options include a second floor baconly, a counter and tables in the aforementioned garden. Open everyday from

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