Around Kansai: Hiking the Tunnels of Takedao　(武田尾)
Takedao, lying in unincorporated Takarazuka city, is made famous by its tunnels. These brick-encrusted tunnels date from the pre-WWII era. Cold, sometimes frost-encrusted winters here give way to breezy, cool respites to sweltering Kansai summer heat. Add in unspoiled greenery, picnicking grounds and fresh air for the makings of lovely day out.

The hiking (some would say walking) course follows a section of the former JR Sanda rail line which follows the Mukogawa river (which empties into Osaka Bay). The tunneled railway line was fully decommissioned in 1986. Hikers arrive at JR Takedao via its’ straighter, faster replacement, veering west away from the river canyon and barreling under Nishinomiya’s northern suburbs.

Cross aging iron trestles, whose rotting timbers afford you a bird’s eye of view the river’s emerald-green waters as they cascade down numerous series of rapids, spillways and chutes. The river level here varies considerably depending on rainfall, evidenced by a giant tree stump wedged into a bridge in front of JR Takedao. That’s almost 15 meters above normal river levels! Don’t forget to bring along a flashlight: several of the course’s seven tunnels are curved at an angle that shuns all outside light.

While the tunnels can be done as a one-way trip, this route ends at busy Rte 176, Hyogo Prefecture’s north-south artery. (Here, there is the option to walk downriver 1 km to JR Namaze) With this in mind, it is recommended to turn around and retrace your steps. The most you’ll walk during your day at Takedao is about five kilometers.

As of spring 2005 the railroad ties were being removed and replaced with coarse crushed rock. So where sneakers used to suffice, sturdy hiking shoes are advised.

On your return leg, Sakura House comes recommended; they offer a good mix of seasonal desserts, snacks, beverages and the usual Japanese noodle dishes. Look for the Swiss-inspired wooden hut in the picnic parking area. They have staked out prime riverfront views to boot.

Conveniently for motorists, vehicle access is easy and free, providing locals and city folk alike with many picnic areas near the start of the trail.
Getting there: Takedao is on the JR Takarazuka line. Be sure to board a local train bound for Sanda (三田). One way fares include: Hankyu Sannomiya: \450; Kawaramachi, \710 and Osaka: \460.
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*Another hike in the vicinity could make for a full day of Takarazuka-area rambling. This second option links Hankyu Yamamoto and Kiyoshi Koujin Stations, offering a stopoff at Nakayama, home to a fertility shrine for aspiring mothers-to-be. Budget five hours and pack a lunch to enjoy at Nakayaya’s summit, a fire-scarred promenade which also provides an eagle-eyed view of all the action at nearby Itami Airport. From Hankyu Yamamoto, take the north exit and proceed up the obvious path, signed in English as a Pilgrim’s Trail. The trail ends at the famous Kioshikoujin shrine, with a nice shopping arcade descent to the station of the same name.