Nayr's Wild and Wacky Winter Vacation 2005

in... The Union of Myanmar (Burma) This longer title was created in 1989.

So here are our thoughts, experiences and observations, day to day.

Day 1: Bangkok (and en-route)
The first day began with a ride on JR (Japan Railways) to the Kansai Airport, a sleek airport offshore of Osaka Bay. We dined at a sushi restaurant advertising crab. Low and behold, there was no crab left for us. I shed a tear of dissapointment for my tasty crustacean freinds and then proceeded to settle into my comfy seat on Singapore Airlines. How much do these guys spoil you? Well, how about 2 cups of Haagen Daaz, plus your own fold-down video moniter, complete with Nintendo and on-demand movies? The 5 and a half hour flight sailed by, plugged into the consul. Upon arrival in Bangkok, I had noticed a few changes since my last visit in 2003. The immigration proceedures are stricter, but yes, they still let in anyone to Thailand.

We then proceeded to our hotel, the bustling, yet tired, Ambassador. Down the lane was a great open-air Thai place, where we ate chili-laced green papaya salad, phad Thai and some nice fruit juice. As we were eating, an elephant and keeper strolled by the 7-11. Just another night in Bangkok. The Ambassador, bargain that it is is surrounded by would-be hotel high rises that are being built pretty much 24-hours a day. Earplugs, as they say, do work wonders.

Day 2: Klonging Alonng, Singing a Song

Our second day in the frenetic, steaming Kingdom's capital was mostly about boating. We met up with the missus' friend, who lives there and took a boat ride through the old city's network of Khlongs. That's Thai for canal. A couple hours' ride was fantastic, we saw neigborhoods without pavement, roads and the like. We saw nice boats, not so nice boats and even styrofoam boats. Many locals were feeding river carp, so we got to see fish thrashing about and churning the water into a mix of fin, tail and of course, pressed fish food granules. Feeding them, I assume is the proper Buddhist thing to do, as Fish are reincarnated people, just as all living things are believed to be. We said adiue to our boat pilot near the Bangkok Skytrain station and went over to the MKB mall. Inside are escalators spanning a huge void. Quite impressive architecture. MKB is smack dab in the middle of the Siam Square area in central Bangkok. We tried Thai Sukiyaki, a japanese concept of adding bits of this and a smidgin of that into a big soup pot. The thai version employed mainly seafood, and these interesting green, crunchy noodles I took to. Then, the wonderful treat of Asia books, a full-on English language bookshop that blows any bookshop in Japan out of the water. besides Powells back home, the only other bookshop I've loved was the one in Singapore, which, ironically enough was Japanese-owned. I bought a Burma fold-out map at the shop, because thats where we were headed the next day...

Day Three: Bangkok to Yangon (Rangoon)

Spoiling ourselves again, but with few options to choose from anyway, we flew with Bankok Airways on this Airbus 320 that they had purchased just a few weeks before. It had that pleasant, conforting new plane smell. In just over an hour's time, the flight crew served a big lunch, drinks and another drink as the plane crossed over into Burma. We landed at Yangon airport and we set our watches back 30 minutes. It was my first time to do so. Time zones...who came up with that? Anyway, Yangon Airport is...under construction. We were directed off the arrival bus (all the busses are old Japanese ones, and we could tell from what city, as the markings hadn't been changed.) into this arrivals hall that reminded me of some Egyptian pyramid chamber. gold-colored, dusty, hot and dry. It was interesting. Outside, we made our way into the city. We first noticed that Burma , and yangon especially, drives with mixed fuel not unlike what one pours into a dirtbike. It burns your eyes and leaves a film on your teeth.
Anyway after a few hours' siesta, we went over to Shwedagon Pagoda (Paya in Burmese) to see one of the most famous landmarks in the whole country. Though foreigners are forced to pay $5 each and ride an elevator up the stairs, we enjoyed the sight very much. The pagoda is thickly coated with gold and jewels adorn the spire. After a very cool stroll around the temple's entirety I felt a bit hungry so we ventured off to have our first proper Burmese meal. It ended up being venison curry. Not so bad, and the cut of venison was tasty, after I ignored the hairs found in the midst. The vegetable side dishes were good, as was my first sampling of palm sugar for dessert.

Day 4: Bare-bones reporting...Yangon. We went to a pagoda which featured a maze of cut glass walls, really amazing scenery. We began to figure out prices, and noticed the locals expect foreigners to bargain for everything, good or service. Ate lovely Shan province noodles, not so unlike ramen noodles, and great fried rice. Talked with a Burmese architect. A very insightful but thouroughly bitter guy. Educated people have a tough time in Yangon and around the country, its near impossible to travel abroad, and international travel permission is at the government's whim. Cell phones are also not available to the public, as are new cars, or even decent used ones. We spent this day organizing the rest of the trip. Yangon is the logistical brain of the country, at least for travellers' needs anyway.

Days 5,6 and 7: Mandalay...
The approach to Mandalay, some 530 KM north of Rangoon, was made via Air Mandalay, one of 3 private airline companies ferrying visitors around Burma's popular sights. The companies all use the ATR, a French turboprop that is quite smooth but not for us tall folk. In burma, everyone loads and deplanes through the back door.
mandalay airport, new and huge in size, isn't yet used, the planes all park on the runway and everyone takes a bus to the bag claim. That, and its' 55km from Mandalay. We got to see all kinds of countryside, plus a stop at a gnarly crafts college, en route to downtown. Compared to the smog and tension of Yangon, I found mandalay to be great. Locals were laid back, more people smiled and we got in some better dining. I was of course asked for money by many women holding naked infants. That part was tough. There was no obvious precedent on what to do. Anyhow the culinary highlight was a great indian fest at Pan Cherry, a cheerful, brightly lit place near Mandalay's central mosque. We also found, by accident, a vibrant night market. Transportation wise, we enjoyed the Blue Taxi, a smallish Mazdapick-up in which passengers sit sideways in the bed. Trisahaws didnt seem to work for us, as I am 84 KG, it seemed to be quite a struggle for the trishaw driver to negotiate the often-unpaved backstreets. So it was mostly blue taxis for us. As day trips, we took a nice ferry ride to Mingun, and a taxi to Saiging Hill, Burma's montestary center. As it was pouring down buckets of water, spiritialization was kept to a minimum. The evening of Day 7 we stayed on Monywa, with lots of cool sights, had it not been raining. We did however see this cool temple with marble tablets inscribed with aincent script.


Day 8-12: On the boat and biking around Bagan (still raining) We hired a boat after seeing that we missed the big government ferry. It was just Us, a couple of persistent blanket vendors, and the boat pilot. Built for speed, our teak speed racer took us downriver a distance of maybe 25 KM in an hour and a half. Upon our arrival in Nyaung U, the cheap digs for visitors to Bagan, we were ready to stay 4 nights at the same place. We made a good choice, and for 12$ a night, we were living like kings.


Day 13: Flight to Heho, gateway to Inle Lake. Air Bagan was much like Air Mandalay, except no crossiont or beverages. But smooth and safe. What else would you expect for 55 bones? Did try this unsually salty balled candy entitled "pizza candy." Enjoyed my first hommade Gnocci at this place advertising the best pizza in Myanmar. As usual, we were surrounded by Germans.

Day 14: Unique Superb Food House- Baman tofu curry. Delish! Met a kewl lady from Sacremento. Good birthdaytime conversation had by all.

Day 15: Kakku: spires and payas on the Pa-o tribal lands. Soccer match, yellow tofu sampling and beautiful landscapes south east of Taunggi, the easternmost point travellers are allowed to proceed to, at least by land.

Day 16: Boat trip

Day 17: Trekking

Day 18: Bus trip to Bago; 18 hours of raw, unbelievable sights, smells and sensations. Provincial checkpoints galore. Busy urinals and greasy chinese noodles. Polite french and frenc Canadien couple.

Day 19: Golden Rock 1; Tiger beer with a view. Endangered Species menu.
Day 20: Golden Rock 2
Day 21: Yangon and bangkok, Part 2
Day 22: Bangkok: shopping, Erewan Shrine, Back to Kansai

Overall thoughts and Gems
1. Breakfast fatigue. I kid you not, every breakfast offereing was eggs, toast, coffee or tea and bananas. An occasional papaya wedge was like a treasure. My travel buddy once ordered Mohinga, a teaditional Burmese soup with a heavy dose of potent dried fish. My curousity said yes, my rumbling stomach said, in terms I could comprehend, a very definiate no.

2. Money.